Note: I am not affiliated with Hockeystickman and paid full retail price for 18 Pro Blackout sticks in calendar 2025. Visit Hockeystickman’s Canadian and USA shops here.

It’s been a while since I’ve written much; with an aggressive coaching and playing schedule, the time and desire just hasn’t been there.

However, I’ve had the unfortunate pleasure of having broken 7 hockey sticks in the last 6 months and therefore have a unique perspective on [most of] Hockeystickman’s lineup of sticks that you might find useful if you’re on the market and don’t want to spend $430+hst on a top-end competitor.

Without actually being able to test all the different versions, navigating the jargon (and with each model having endless five-star reviews), knowing what you’re getting for your money can be challenging.

I’ve coached players whose parents have made their purchasing decision based on team colours, unaware that there is a key functional difference between these sticks.

While this article will focus on Hockeystickman’s Pro Blackout lineup, I’ve also played with, tested or broken sticks from Swift, Hoapa, Bauer and CCM in the last 12 months and can confidently make relatively holistic recommendations.

Before we get into the “verdict”, the more-savvy reader may recognize that 3 of the Pro Blackout lineup (blue, red, green) are essentially the same stick with different kickpoints. So in this post, we’ll look at:

1. What is a kick-point?
2. Which kick-point is right for me?
3. Which Hockeystickman Pro Blackout stick is best for my needs?

What is a kick-point?

Hockey stick kickpoints are where a stick is designed to flex when “loading” (or storing energy) for a shot. High/mid kickpoints are generally closer to your hands while low/ultra-low kickpoints are closer to the blade.

I’ve reviewed many existing articles related to kickpoints and found mostly generalizations and marketing terms as opposed to anything super useful. You’ve probably seen the usual tropes: Mid kick-points are for the powerful shooter that likes to lean into their shot. Low kick-points are for players who like to get their shots off quickly.

But hold on, then why does Leon Draisaitl, with one of the NHL’s best one-timers, use a low-kick stick? Why does Nathan Mackinnon and Jack Eichel, with their deadly snapshots, use mid-kick?

We need to recognize that the pros/cons of a kickpoint are more related to shooting technique & mechanics and less about what “kind” of player you are.

We also need to recognize that everyone shoots (and skates, etc etc) a bit differently, so I’d veer away from trying to study your player archetype and more towards what your mechanics are, or what you aspire them to be.

Kick-Point Characteristics

Some of us decide that we “like” a specific kickpoint because we replace our old stick – arbitrarily – a Bauer Nexus (mid-kick) with – also arbitrarily – a new CCM Ribcor Trigger Pro (Ultra-low kick) and love it. Therefore you must be a “low-kick” player.

There’s nothing wrong with enjoying a new toy, however, these two sticks are different in just about every way, not just kick-point. Construction, shaft geometry, blade stiffness, grip, carbon type, personal preferences and more, all play roles in how “good” a stick is.

We also need to understand that any top-end stick is very likely going to be good at everything. Any $430 stick being objectively bad at something would be a bit ridiculous. So you can do away any sort of “low-kicks are bad at slapshots” mentality.

Everything else remaining equal, looking at kickpoints in isolation (and incredibly simplified – this geometry is easier to explain):

The above admittedly-simplified diagram shows that the same amount of force applied on the kickpoint of a mid-kick stick creates more blade displacement than a low-kick (with hybrid being inbetween these two examples).

So what?

Which one is right for me?

That’s the million-dollar question. Rather than trying to say “mid-kick for slap shots from the point” or “low-kick for snap shots in tight”, let’s try to break down who might benefit from each kickpoint from a mechanics perspective.

	Mid-Kick	Low-Kick
Receiving Passes	+ If you more often cradle / cushion passes (say to be ready to pass)	+ If you more often stop passes abruptly (to have puck separation, say to be ready for an immediate snap shot)
Wrist Shots	+ You prefer a longer sweep and allow the puck to roll all the way from heel to toe, providing more time for your stick to transfer power into the puck	+ You prefer a shorter sweep and prioritize getting your shot off quickly; the puck may not be in contact with the entire length of your blade
Snap Shots	+ You more often set the puck with more separation (~2-3 puck lengths) + From a front/back perspective, you more often strike the puck further back in your stance (ie. near the back foot) and have your top hand tucked closer to your body + From a side-to-side perspective, you more often snap pucks farther away from your feet / center-of-gravity	+ You more often set the puck with less separation (~1 puck length or less) + From a front/back perspective, you more often strike the puck further forward in your stance (ie. near the front foot) and have your top hand well off your body + From a side-to-side perspective, you more often snap pucks closer to your feet / center-of-gravity
Slap Shots	+ You strike the ice well in advance of the puck (2-3 puck lengths or more) with a longer sweep to transfer power to the puck	+ You strike the ice closer to the puck, and prefer a shorter load/release cycle
Feel	+ You prefer to feel your stick flexing when shooting, passing, taking face-offs, battling along the boards, etc.	+ You prefer a stiffer, more predictable feel when shooting, passing, taking face-offs, battling along the boards, etc.

Important Note: Kick-points are generally designed for a stick at its stock length. Keep this in mind if you cut or extend your stick significantly (as an example, if you buy a mid-kick stick and cut 4″ off the top, it may end up feeling like a high-kick stick. Therefore, a hybrid may end up being more “mid kick” after adjusting to your specs).

I’d also give kudos to this video from Hockey Tutorial for being the first video I’ve seen on kickpoints that focused on mechanics rather than just “player archetype”. Would recommend the video for a watch.

OK, So I Get Kick-Points. Which Pro Blackout Stick is for me?

	Pro Blackout (Extra Lite)	Pro Blackout Blue Lite	Pro Blackout Red Lite	Pro Blackout Green Lite	Pro Blackout Prototype
Kick Point	Low	Mid	Low	Hybrid	Hybrid (Low also available as “Whiteout” version)
Weight	400g	365g	365g	365g	350g
Price	149	179	179	179	179
Other Notable Features		18K Toray Carbon	18K Toray Carbon	18K Toray Carbon	24K Toray Carbon Extra-Stiff Blade Core Ridged Grip
Durability	2/5	1/5	1/5	1/5	4/5
Shooting	2/5	3/5	3/5	3/5	4/5
Puck Feel	1/5	2/5	2/5	2/5	4/5

Pro Blackout (Extra Lite):

This stick is literally called “Extra Lite” and it’s the heaviest of the bunch. It’s also the oldest stick in the lineup being reviewed, and it definitely feels a couple generations old.

Durability is OK, shooting performance is OK, stickhandling feels a bit heavy and the balance isn’t ideal. Hopefully many of the new features in the “Prototype” lineup end up in a new version of this stick.

For you if: Saving $30 is a dealbreaker, if you prefer a bit of a “dampened feel” to your stick, if you prefer a bit of extra heft on your stick, and closely identify with the above-mentioned “low kick” characteristics.

Not for you if: You’re looking for a stick that most closely resembles top-end performance but at a lower cost.

Pro Blackout (Blue, Red, Green Lite):

These sticks are all identical except for the kick-point, featuring much better shooting performance and balance at the expense of blade durability.

Granted I’m on the ice a lot (around 20 hours a week), but an average stick lifespan of less than 1 month (sample size: at least 10 sticks) almost makes you consider spending more. Beyond 1 month the blade significantly degrades (the creaky floorboard effect), impacting snap shot power and accuracy.

For you if: You want a relatively modern stick for only $30 more than the Extra Lite. They’re well stocked if you don’t like changing sticks every time you break one. If you aren’t too hard on the stick (with shot blocks, board battles, etc.) and you want to be able to choose between all 3 main kick-points. Durability may not be a big issue if it’s for a youth player that often outgrows their equipment before breaking it.

Not for you if: You want the absolute latest performance or if you tend to break sticks regularly.

Pro Blackout Prototype (CLEAR WINNER):

The black version is hybrid-kick and the “whiteout” version is low-kick. This stick is the lightest of the bunch, features an extra-stiff blade core for much better “pop” for snap shots, and the best balance by far.

This stick is the closest from a puck-feel perspective as compared to what the top-end $430 sticks on the market offer. It’s also therefore the only stick I’d say gets close to “top end performance, for less”. That they are the same price as the Blue/Green/Reds is somewhat astonishing.

It’s my newest stick but so far blade durability seems to be much better than any of the prior generations. Unfortunately, this stick may be limited edition – here’s to hoping it sticks around or becomes the new generation Extra Lite. After testing, I bought 5 of them to tide me over.

For you if: You want top-end performance, for less. At the same price as the Blue/Green/Reds, this stick is a no-brainer unless you’re planning on spending significantly more. Just decide between kick-points and/or if the white fits your “sty”.

Nor for you if: If you depend on your sticks to always be available. Listed as “limited edition”, it’s possible that once you break this stick, you may have to change sticks again.